Experienced by Richard Williams, at Cempedak Private Island, Riau Archipelago, Indonesia
Who knew that just a hop, skip and a jump from Singapore, lay this idyllic island getaway. Cempedak Private Island is located in the Riau Archipelago of Indonesia. A multi-award winning property, from Conde Nast Traveller to National Geographic Traveller, Cempedak is a ferry trip from Tanah Merah, Singapore, to Bintan Island, a drive across Bintan to Kawal, the resort office and pier, where you are warmly welcomed by name and offered a chilled fragrant towel and a signature ginger tea. A short speedboat ride brings you to Cempedak Island. It’s hard not to imagine a “Bond – 007” moment!
Frankly, the epitome of a wellness escape, Cempedak is a place to disconnect, decompress, and relax. Surrender to the beauty of nature and allow it to soothe you, rejuvenate and revive you. Cempedak is a sustainable destination and therefore it attracts a demographic interested in the care of the environment. Low footprint travelers’ who seek out places to visit with spectacular natural ecosystems that do not compromise on comfort and a little luxury. Barefoot travel has become a bit of a cliché, but on Cempedak, bring your reef shoes and pack your walking shoes for a guided nature walk.
Boarding Manu 4, one of the island speedboats, the adventure begins and with the wind in your hair and inhaling the salty sea breeze, you will already start to feel yourself relaxing. The trip takes about 25 mins, the weather is stunning, the sea a deep azure blue, many satellite islands are seen as we hug the Bintan Island coastline before making a turn to Cempedak. There is a feeling of anticipation as the boat gets closer, one can see the lush tropical jungle and the amazing bamboo and thatch structures which will be home for the next few days. There is a warm cheery greeting from staff on the jetty, many of whom I get to know better during the stay, and never cease to be surprised with what I can only describe as a personalized experience. Addressed again by name, we are escorted to the coffee bar, in the restaurant, where another cool fragrant towel and welcome drink is offered before lunch.
Lunch today is a salad of calamari and a local main called Nasi Campur, which is rice with a selection of small dishes. Today, grilled chicken, beef rendang, stuffed tofu, a green vegetable, (later I am told its cassava leaf), with shredded coconut, and a small piece of grilled fish. For dessert there was an amazing pineapple crumble caramel tart with coconut ice-cream. Wow! Clearly no one will go hungry, and all the dishes were so tasty and delicious and felt “healthy”! You are informed that the meals are of average size, and you are always welcome to ask for more. Of course, you may also request vegetarian and vegan meals. Be assured that everything is farm to table. The vegetables, seasonal and locally sourced, farmed without pesticides and chemicals. The beef and lamb are grass-fed NZ and Australian sourced. The fish are freshly caught locally and meet with WWF Marine Park fishing standards. At the Dodo bar and Boathouse, there is always fresh fruits and homemade cookies to quell any hunger in between meals. To be honest, I skipped a couple of lunches during my stay as the breakfasts are very generous and include local cake or kueh, (bite sized traditional sweet snacks), a local option, (which could be rice porridge, fried rice, or noodles), or eggs, bacon, baked beans, sausages and more! Great plunger coffee sourced from Java or handpicked coffee beans sourced from the mountains in Sulawesi.
My villa is enormous and is located up the hill, immersed in the jungle and with a sweeping sea view. The structure is handcrafted sustainable bamboo with alang-alang thatch on the roof. Opening the large entry door, I enter a vast living room with a large comfortable sofa, (think natural fibers and teak), a powder room, a small pantry area where beverages can go in an icebox, a kettle for tea and coffee. Huge glass concertina doors open to a wooden deck, outdoor shower, a teardrop horizon plunge pool and panoramic view of the forest and ocean in the distance. It’s very much about bringing the outside in, and you are indeed cocooned within this lush tropical paradise.
Up the sweeping bamboo stairs lies the huge master bedroom suite, the bed suitably mosquito netted, armchairs and large bathroom. You understand why there is no bath, given that all the water on the island is rainwater sourced. Elegant natural décor is suitably comfortable and luxurious. As a solo traveler I feel very spoilt. How great to be able to give myself this opportunity to have some alone-time, and to go with the flow, and switch off for a few days. You will find a tablet on the desk, used for communication, including a WhatsApp contact and daily activities along with an Island Guide. There is no television, and no air-conditioning is required based on the architecture of the villa structures. Every bed has a remote-controlled fan above. Digital detox is encouraged. Do you really need your watch?!
There are seaside, clifftop, and hilltop jungle villas, 20 in total. These are all the same build, and yet they each have their own uniqueness, be it the view, the convenience of a sea swim, or simply the opportunity to get a better look at the island habitat. Cempedak’s consultant naturalist Raj Suberaj, a leader in his field, is focused on monitoring the rare and interesting wildlife on the island, to enable nature-loving guests to explore and discover some of the resident fauna. Hawksbill and Green Sea Turtles nest on the beach. When nests are found, the staff fence them in to protect them from predators such as monitor lizards. The Nicobar Pidgeon, Irrawaddy Dolphins, Silver Leaf Monkeys and even the critically endangered Sunda Pangolin have been sighted on or around the island. During my stay, I had two encounters with an impressive Oriental Pied Hornbill, once on a branch as I strolled up the hill and another time as I lay by the villa pool. He just seemed to fly in to say hello, perched on the deck railing and as quick as he arrived, off he flew. The hornbills can be heard in the treetops, usually there are more than one. I am also slightly obsessed with sea otters. I know for those living in Singapore they are a common sight along the marina, but in this natural habitat they are even more enchanting. The staff are not so keen, as I’m told the otter’s smell of fish, but their playful nature and their birdlike chirp is awfully cute!
Next day I found myself in another BBC, Attenborough nature moment, quietly standing in the shady trees around a pond. I watched the courtship dance of beautiful, huge butterflies and the busy work of enormous black bees. I learnt during my stay that there are different species of bees that produce very different honey. Both of which you can sample and purchase. The Jungle Bee honey was very dark, thinner, and sour to taste, compared to the other more light, floral, and sweeter honey. This is my kind of wellness escape. To immerse myself in a natural habitat, to learn sustainable initiatives whilst still enjoying my passion for food and for spa.
The Rock Spa is this spectacular structure of bamboo and traditional high thatched roofs, planted on the giant rocks at the ocean’s edge. These giant rocks look like they have been strategically placed by a crane, certainly not made by nature. And yet here they are, some with great ridges down them as if by some celestial hand. The spa team are warm and welcoming. I am told that they come from Bintan Island, and thus they are very familiar with the local land, its stories and communities. Each of the three double treatment rooms are fully open to the sea. Sit whilst you enjoy an herbal foot wash, looking out for the bird life or a monitor lizard. There is no piped music here, let nature be your orchestra, the sublime sound of the ocean and the wind in the trees. It’s hard to express the feeling, I can only describe as bliss. I enjoyed a Balinese massage, a combination of thumb, palm pressure and firm strokes, with a medium to strong, deep-tissue pressure. The extra virgin coconut oil produced locally, smells almost delicious and it’s such a great hydrator and healer. My young therapist Melati had such strong intuitive hands, she was able to find all the knots and tension, and yet I can’t believe I was still able to doze off during the treatment. For me, this is always a testament to the therapist’s skills, to be able to lull you into the sleep zone. Sitting up to finish with massage around the shoulders and neck, always for me, relieves what in Bahasa Indonesia they call “masuk anggin”, internal wind. I was asked to dress and would be met back at spa reception by Melati with a warm ginger tea. My villa is a short stroll through the jungle, but a golf buggy can turn up in minutes, any time you want a lift. I am confident I will enjoy a deep sleep tonight.
Housekeeping will normally close the villa doors in the evening and sets the bed, closing the netting. I prefer to have the upstairs doors open, I can hear the ocean and feel the breeze, to me, this is idyllic. It did rain one day during my stay. A tropical deluge that prevented any outdoor beach activities or swims at the Boathouse due to the thunder and lightening strikes. This is all part of the adventure and I suggest you enjoy it. I brought my book with me and thus settled down to a good read and a snooze. Some guests will hole up at the Dodo Bar or the Coffee Bar for a cocktail and a board game. There is a keyboard, guitar, and ukulele available for the musically inclined.
When the sun shines, there is a lot of water sports and activities to choose from, such as windsurfing, kayaking, SUP, sailing the catamaran, snorkeling, or diving nearby coral atolls. I am a big fan of jumping off jetties, and Cempedak jetty was no exception. A reminder of youth, it’s such a fun activity leaping into the deep blue ocean and with that natural panoramic backdrop… unforgettable. I know of no other remote island resort that has a pristine lawn for tennis, boule, and croquet. Wandering along an island path you come across this beautiful lush green court. Dawn and dusk are the best and cooler times to play, and I can highly recommend laying on the lawn on a dry night to watch the mesmerizing night sky! Another activity that can be enjoyed at sunrise or sunset on the jetty or in the privacy of your villa is a gentle yoga class. A great way to start the day.
A very integral part of Cempedak Island and its sister island Nikoi is their admirable responsible tourism policy. The Island Foundation was established in 2009 by the property’s owners and registered as a charitable foundation in Singapore and Indonesia. TIF’s primary focus is education for local communities. Since its conception, 12 learning centers have been established on Bintan and the surrounding islands. 3,168 students have participated in learning programs and 1,526 teachers have been trained through TIF. The Indonesian government is funding better management of the area, and both Nikoi and Cempedak Islands are within the boundaries of an MPA, Marine Protected Area, which covers some 138,000 hectares gazetted by the Governor of the Riau Provence. In the context of the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals, (SDG’s), the development and operation of Cempedak and Nikoi has benefitted 15 of these 17 goals.
Cempedak has pushed the boundaries beyond what other regional hotels and even further afield have gone. Huge respect to them as members of The Long Run, http://www.thelongrun.org as a GER* Global Ecosphere Retreat, a sustainable travel movement, helping business, nature and people work together for a better future. Thus, Cempedak and Nikoi’s commitment to the environment as its core values; Conservation – beach clean ups, bio-diversity surveys, employing a marine conservation officer, Energy Reduction with water and solar power initiatives and a Zero Waste policy – reduce, recycle, re-use upcycle. Massive Culture and Community collaborations and initiatives, including giving back financially via TIF, and also in the wellbeing of the staff, most of whom have worked here since Cempedak opened in 2015.
As a guest, I have to say how absolutely impressive this is. How great it feels to be a contributor in some way to this pristine slice of heaven and to the surrounding communities and culture. You may also have an opportunity to participate in any onshore charitable events, village visits, farming tour, or artist worshops and retreats.
It is hard to express what an incredible wellness experience this has been for me. I suspect that everyone who leaves this island has a little piece of their heart that remains. The staff have become family, thank you Jimmy, Ary, Gaspar, the wonderful young team at the restaurant, the highly knowledgeable water-sports team at the Boathouse and Emmy and her team at The Rock Spa, frankly everyone, they are so helpful, friendly, and professional! Suitably refueled, inspired and perhaps a little transformed, this trip was an unforgettable one, and I am already working out when I can return.
http://www.cempedakisland.com
http://www.theislandfoundation.com
Richard Williams
Richard is a New Zealander by nationality with over 39 years in the hospitality industry, working around the globe in 5-star hotels, wellness resorts and fine dining restaurants. Richard develops spa concepts, conducts spa training and operational consulting. Projects have included The Puxuan, Beijing, The Ruma, KL, Lohkah, Xiamen, W Hotel, Guangzhou, JHL Solitaire Serpong, Java, Heavenly Spa at Westin, Nusa Dua, Bali, St. Regis, KL, St.Regis, Maldives. A founding member of ASPA, the Australasian Spa Association, SWAS Spa & Wellness Assoc. Singapore, and APSWC Asia Pacific Spa & Wellness Coalition. Richard has spent over 20 years in Asia, the last 9 in Bali, Indonesia. After the Covid pandemic, Richard has returned to Bali where he continues to offer consulting services.
